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Eat Asian Start Tomorrow

If there’s one thing to be said for most Asian restaurants it’s the fact that diners are usually spoiled for choice. East, St. Catharines’ latest entry in the market segment is no exception, offering more than 100 dishes with a focus on Thai and Vietnamese cuisine.
The simplicity of the restaurant’s name is mirrored in its décor. Bold, precise stripes of orange line one wall, in sharp contrast to the opposite wall which is dominated by the same sunburst shade and accented by black vertical columns and glistening white banquette seating. Tall, square glass vases containing white lilies are placed strategically around the dining room. During the day large windows bathe the space in natural light. But when the sun goes down they provide a good view of the candle lit interior.
East’s wine list is as sparse as the as the menu is daunting. Only one white wine from Niagara is available by the glass. I recommend sticking to Thai beer, especially if spicy dishes suit your palate. We take ample time deliberating over our choice of starters while we catch up on recent life events with friends. Our server takes the first orders, Thai Fish Cakes ($6.99) and Thai Shrimp Rolls ($5.99). The first dishes are quite tasty, representing good value as well. Six fish cakes, each about two inches in diameter, have a distinctive flavour, most likely from the addition of pungent fish sauce. Texture can often be slightly rubbery (as is the case here) from the use of corn flour and beaten egg as binding agents. The shrimp are wrapped in thin rice paper and deep fried I hope our dinner companions will forgive the lack of detail regarding their selections but socializing tends to take precedence over analytical process. Suffice it to say that any dining experience is greatly enhanced when shared with good company.
Of the entrée selections, two of them warrant positive remarks. Mango Fish ($18.99) is a generous piece of Chilean Seabass, pan–seared with a crisp, golden brown crust and served over mango salad. The salad is a nice concept but I find it a bit of a letdown. The use of under ripe mangoes makes the salad unexciting, lacking any anticipated sweetness and overwhelmed by too much red onion. I am pleased with my choice, beef brisket in red Thai curry ($9.99). An aromatic combination of red chili paste, galangal (a relative of ginger) and coconut milk make this a comforting and delicious meal. Meat is tender (could be more so) imparting a stew–like quality to the dish while spoonfuls of rice help soak up the rich, creamy sauce. My partner chooses the Thai Mango Salad as an entrée only to find the same deficiency as with the aforementioned mango concoction. We close with desserts of black Thai sticky rice, coated with coconut milk, and fried (battered) bananas with ice cream. The desserts are a nice, not–too–sweet ending to our dinner.

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